Statistics from the late 1960s and early 1970s already indicated just how polluting textile industries are, even though science had not yet established measuring tools such as Life Cycle Assessments (LCAs), which measure each material’s footprint to evaluate the overall environmental impact and sustainability of a product. This has become the state-of-the-art method for today’s industries, not just textiles, to orient themselves on what’s good or bad.
Our skin, the body’s largest organ, often lacks adequate care and protection. While facial skincare receives attention with makeup and beauty products, the rest of our skin is sometimes neglected. For decades, synthetic polyester fibers dominated our clothing choices, disregarding potential health hazards like skin allergies and textile waste accumulation. Clothing, our “third skin,” plays a crucial role in safeguarding our bodies. Those with skin issues often find relief by opting for natural textiles, echoing ancestral practices favoring hemp and flax, commonly known as linen. The concept of ‘fast fashion,’ unthinkable in the past, has transformed the value of textiles, which once carried beyond one generation as bed linens, tablecloths, and woven fabrics, serving as a young woman’s most valuable dowry.
Hemp fiber boasts numerous positive traits, including moisture-wicking, anti-inflammatory, UV protection, and durability. Compared to cotton, hemp cultivation is more sustainable, requiring less water and fewer chemicals, and can thrive in various geographical regions. Additionally, it can be cultivated in diverse geographical regions, unlike cotton, which is often limited to areas affected by drought. This characteristic reduces competition for water resources, benefiting both humans and animals. Despite challenges in quantifying the textile industry’s global footprint, scientific studies suggest it contributes 3 to 10% of greenhouse gas emissions and accounts for 9% of microplastic pollution. Additionally, the majority of garment workers, comprising 68% women, face exploitation and unfair wages in lawless work environments.
When ‘fast fashion’ emerged between 2000-2005, China took the lead in developing a hemp textile industry in 2006, recognizing hemp’s potential, particularly its life-saving anti-inflammatory properties for military use. Chinese government investments propelled hemp textile research and production, establishing a full vertical industry chain from cultivation to weaving. Consequently, many modern fashion brands source hemp textiles from China due to its pioneering advancements in the field.
Ding Hongliang, the founder of Hemp Fortex, a Chinese company established in 1999, has set a special standard for sustainability and worker treatment in the hemp industry. His employees enjoy exceptional working conditions and cooked lunches made with organically grown ingredients from the factory’s greenhouse. Hongliang is also actively involved in addressing one of the biggest issues in hemp textiles: the degumming of the fiber. This process removes impurities from the fiber and prepares it for spinning and weaving. Historically, water retting was used for degumming, but it has been forbidden due to its pollutive nature. It has been replaced by a chemical process, which still poses environmental risks.
Meanwhile, supply chain issues have accelerated the development of hemp textiles in Europe. Marta Vinhas from Portugal has embraced her country’s textile heritage and is making strides towards creating a fully circular hemp economy. She involves former garment workers in hemp and natural dye utilization, emphasizing the social and environmental benefits of garments over mere activism statements. Marta believes that hemp fashion will gain momentum once it reaches fashion enthusiasts beyond traditional hemp communities.
On a personal note:
For all fashionistas and textile lovers, Fashion Revolution is a great resource on creating a cleaner and more conscious textile industry, which respects the boundaries of our planet and protects human rights. Also, you can find more insights on the Portuguese local supply chain in my 2023 created short climate impact film.
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